Science of Skincare (S.O.S. #3): What is Cell Turnover and Why Should I Care About it?

Welcome back!

Today I am going to be educating you on what cell turnover is and why you should care about yours. If you aren't that familiar with the skin and don't spend much time taking care of it, this is extremely important for you to know about. Cell turnover is huge when it comes to combating aging and keeping your skin healthy and glowing.  I will be talking about exfoliation as well a little later on because it is a vital step in maintaining good cell turnover. If your mind immediately goes to apricot scrub, PLEASE do not stop reading this (also please throw it in the trash). 

So what is cell turnover? It's the process of new cells being created in the lowest level of the epidermis and moving outwards towards the outermost layers, to where they will eventually slough off as dead skin cells. When targeted, it can help with so many skin issues which is helpful when trying to combat more than one issue at a time.

As we age, the time that it takes for a cell to move through this process and become a dead skin cell lengthens, meaning your cells aren't renewing as quickly. This is why skin starts to lose it's glow as we age. The dead skin cells can sit on the surface causing your skin to look dull and can prevent products from penetrating well. No matter how much you try to, you cannot hydrate a dead skin cell. Ever wondered why a baby's bottom is so smooth? They have ridiculous rates of cell proliferation and their skin cells turnover very quickly. Did I just depress you? Hopefully I can bring your spirits back up by telling you how exfoliation can combat aging!

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. It can be done by buffing, scrubbing, chemically breaking down different components of the skin and more. It's generally broken down into two different categories of physical and chemical exfoliation; physical being those that buff or scrub the dead skin cells away and chemical being those that dissolve the keratin or other cells to get rid of the dead skin cells. The exact type of exfoliation that you need is completely dependent on your skin and preferences (although if you've read previous posts you probably already know that I believe in chemical over physical for most).  

If you're going to use a physical exfoliator you want to make sure that the ingredients creating the exfoliation can dissolve (i.e. sugar, jojoba beads (made of wax),etc.). Things like apricot scrubs can cause micro-tears in the skin so please don't use them EVER. If you have any acne you definitely want to stray away from physical exfoliation because it can spread bacteria and increase inflammation. 

Chemical exfoliators are what I believe to be the most ideal for most skin types. I prefer to gently exfoliate a little bit every day instead of doing a really harsh form of exfoliation once in a while. This ensures that my cells are turning over consistently. I like it too because of the added benefits of keeping my pores unclogged and my skin less likely to break out. To do this, I recommend a few different types of products. You could use AHA's, BHA's, fruit enzymes, rice enzyme powders, or Retinoids, just to name a few. They vary in strength and carry other benefits besides exfoliation. For example, Glycolic Acid is my favorite AHA and while it's great for gently exfoliating my skin (I use it in my toner every night with Lactic Acid), it also helps stimulate collagen, thicken my skin, and aids in moisture retention for my skin. Some fruit enzymes can also contain brightening properties. If you have more questions about which chemical exfoliant is right for you, please send me an email or message and I'd be happy to help you. Below I've listed some examples of these chemical exfoliators (**Amazon links are affiliate links meaning I make a percentage of the sale if purchased through my link. If this makes you uncomfortable please feel free not to use. If you do, thank you! Your support helps me bring more content to you!)

Here's a quick list of benefits in speeding up cell turnover regarding different skin issues:
1. Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (i.e. acne scarring): increasing cell turnover helps bring darkened and damaged cells to the surface and the scarring fades. 
2. Sun Damage: depending on the amount of damage, increasing cell turnover can fade and lighten sun spots.
3. Dry skin: product absorption is much more effective when there are no dead skin cells building up on the surface.
4. Aging: serums and treatment products are more effective because they can penetrate.
5. Acne: pores are less likely to become trapped with dirt and oil and house bacteria, if dead skin cells aren't sitting on the surface. 
6. Dullness: removing dead skin cells can remove the dull look of your skin and bring back your glow. Newer cells just simply look better than old ones. 
7. Fine Lines: plumper and newer cells will decrease the appearance of fine lines. 

I hope you learned more about your skin today and what you can do to combat aging and keep it healthy! As always, leave a comment below with requests for more S.O.S. topics that you'd like to see.

Until the next post,

Andrea 

Science of Skincare (S.O.S. #2): Dry vs. Dehydrated

For this month's S.O.S. post I wanted to tackle a subject that can be very confusing for people when trying to understand their skin and pick the correct products for their specific skin type. As the title explains above, today I'm going to be explaining the science behind the difference between dry skin and dehydrated skin. While many people are considered dry skin, any skin type can be dehydrated. 

What is dry skin? Dry skin is a skin type that is lacking oil, or sebum. Oil acts as a lubricant for our skin, helping it retain water and prevent premature aging. When your skin has  a hard time retaining water it can lead to your skin cells not being able to function properly. Some people experience dry skin during certain seasons or all the time. It is extremely common to become drier as our skin ages and becomes thinner. Remember! Your skin type can change later in life. 

So what can you do? The first thing you need to make sure you are doing regularly is exfoliating. If you have dry, dead skin cells on the surface, you cannot moisturize those to make your skin feel nourished again. Next, you need to look for products with lipid based ingredients (oils are great) that focus on moisturization, NOT hydration. Your goal is add lipids to the surface to make up for your sebaceous glands not producing enough sebum.  

What is dehydrated skin? Dehydrated skin is that which is lacking water. This means that EVERY skin type can be dehydrated, even oily ones. Water is key in happy functioning cells as well. When your skin is hydrated it will appear more plump, smooth, and glowy. Hydrated skin also hide fine lines and wrinkles better. If you live in an extremely dry environment it's common to be dehydrated. 

So what can you do? If you find that you have dehydrated skin up your water intake first. I know I probably sound like a broken record when saying this, but water consumption is huge for your skin, especially when you are stressed, sick, or busy (hello all of us). Next, look for products that contain humectants because these ingredients attract water to hydrate NOT moisturize the skin. Humectants, like Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate, are great for helping your skin bind water (up to 1000% their weight). Using a night cream with a small percentage of Glycolic Acid can also be beneficial, as Glycolic Acid also binds to water and has a small molecular size so it penetrates well. Another Fall/Winter tip is to sleep with a humidifier in your bedroom at night. It's so helpful for dehydrated skin to be in more humid air while sleeping. 

If you have questions as to whether your skin is dry or dehydrated, please comment below or send me a message! I'd be happy to help you determine if these apply to you. If you have suggestions for my next S.O.S. post, please let me know.

Have a beautiful day,

Andrea

Science of Skincare (S.O.S. #1): Glycolic Acid

If you've spoken to me about skincare before it probably comes at no surprise that my first S.O.S. post would be about Glycolic Acid. I say it all the time, that it is my favorite skincare ingredient and I will never stop using it (even when eventually pregnant because FUN FACT: it's safe to use during pregnancy). 

So what's the big deal? Why do I love it so much? Well Glycolic Acid works in many ways on the skin to help increase cell turnover, hydrate, stimulate collagen, thicken the skin, fade hyperpigmentation, decrease fine lines and wrinkles, improve texture, keep breakouts away, and so much more! Today I'm going to give you a brief overview of what Glycolic Acid does for us on a scientific level and then recommend some of my favorite products if you would like to start incorporating it into your regular at home skincare regimen. 

Glycolic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid or A.H.A. known for it's tiny molecular size which allows for it's effectiveness when penetrating the skin. Dervived from sugars like sugar cane, it's great for all skin types including those who are sensitive. It works on an epidermal and dermal level which is how it gives us so many beneficial results.

On the epidermal level, Glycolic Acid breaks down the desmosomes, or glue, that bind dead skin cells together. Dissolve the glue that holds the dead skin cells down, and you have an effective way to exfoliate them. This ultimately increases cell turnover, since you're encouraging newer cells to come to the surface, which helps fade sunspots, acne scars, melasma, fine lines, and reveal fresher and brighter skin. It also helps dissolve sebum, which is why it's great for clearing up congestion and texture issues in pores. I often recommend it to people if they feel excess oil is being trapped in their pores on a regular basis. 

On the dermal level, it stimulates the collagen and works to increase the thickness of the skin. As we age it's important to focus on thickening the skin or maintaining thickness to prevent aging. Glycolic Acid also helps draw water molecules in the air into the skin which helps you retain moisture and ultimately look hydrated and plumped. 

So I'm guessing one or more of these benefits has intrigued you and you're wondering how can you incorporate Glycolic Acid into your skincare routine? Below you'll find first, the two ways that I incorporate Glycolic Acid into my skincare routine daily and weekly. Then I have a list of links of everything from Cleansers to Masks, that I recommend you trying. If you have any questions of which ones would work best for you, please shoot me a message or email and I'd be happy discuss further or set up a 1 on 1 skincare consultation with you!

I currently use the Dermadoctor Ain't Misbehavin' Healthy Toner ($39) every morning and night after cleansing. If you are new to glycolic acid start off by using it every other night and build up to twice a day. Then once a week I use the Andalou Naturals Pumpkin Honey Glycolic Mask ($14.99). 

Cleansers: Dermadoctor Wrinkle Revenge Antioxidant Enchanced Glycolic Acid Racial Cleanser ($32), Exuviance Clarifying Facial Cleanser ($36), Mario Badescu Glycolic Foaming Cleanser ($16). 

Toners: Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner ($16), Exuviance Moisture Balance Toner ($32), Peter Thomas Roth 8% Glycolic Solutions Toner ($40). 

Treatments: Exuviance Performance Peel AP25 ($77), First Aid Beauty Facial Radiance Pads ($30), Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel Sensitive ($42). 

Moisturizers: Exuviance Glycolic Expert Moisturizer ($46), Cane + Austin Facial Moisture Cream ($80), Ole Henriksen Counter Balance Oil Control Hydrator ($34). 

So there you have it! My love affair with Glycolic Acid explained! As usual these recommendations are only that; please reach out to me with specific questions for your skincare routine. I recommend only trying one new product at a time to give them an honest shot (You will only need at most, two of those products incorporated at once in your daily/weekly routine).

If you have recommendations for the next S.O.S. topic, please be sure to leave a comment below so I can address it in the future!

Have a beautiful day!

-Andrea